I had never inaugurated a suite before—being the first guest to arrive, sleep there, and dip into a pool no one else had touched. But about two weeks ago, I received a message from Yair Lederman of Zman Arava, an adults-only cabin complex in Tzukim in the central Arava region, which opened in 2018 with eight guest units.
"In two weeks, I’m launching our new creation—a crazy couple's suite I worked on during the war. It’s truly a masterpiece of hospitality. Could we do a launch article about the new offerings in the Arava?"
Of course, I couldn’t disappoint the amiable Yair, so I booked a weekend in Tzukim—a village that has become the Israeli desert’s cabin kingdom. What makes Tzukim stand out? A combination of elements that converge in one place: cool people with a half-spiritual, half-artistic vibe; breathtaking cliffs (from which the village gets its name) overlooking Nahal Ashosh and Nahal Tzofar; an artists’ village worth visiting; a few restaurants near the gas station at the entrance; and a location not too far from the center, so you still feel the desert without traveling too far.
"Each Suite Is Like Another Baby"
The war didn’t spare cabin owners in the Arava. They initially experienced 100% cancellations, but as winter—the desert’s prime season—began, bookings resumed. Yair, who employs several staff members to maintain Zman Arava, didn’t lay them off. Instead, he utilized the workforce to build his dream suite—Suite #8—the largest and most secluded of all. "We invested an insane amount here," he shares. "Each suite is like another baby, and at my age, I just want to be a grandpa already," he jokes.
The new suite, named Star Balcony (for its openness to the starry night sky), is built in the same style as the other suites but is much larger. It features a spacious deck with a chill-out corner and two cushioned wooden sunbeds for stargazing or sunbathing. Beyond the wooden fence, there’s a double hammock perfect for stargazing or simply relaxing with a view of the desert. There’s also a single hanging hammock for extra comfort. For those who need it, there’s a fully equipped barbecue station.
The highlight of the deck is, of course, the heated square pool (up to 40°C), a fantastic solution to the cold desert nights. Next to it, Yair placed a small bottle of arak and two shot glasses.
Inside, guests are greeted by a fireplace with logs in a basket and a cozy sitting area. A short staircase leads to the bedroom with a queen-size bed and a unique new addition: two of the four pillows are orthopedic. The bed is dressed in soft Egyptian cotton linens, and there’s even a smart TV with cable.
The suite also has a well-equipped kitchenette with utensils, a microwave, a kettle, and a minibar stocked with Katzra beers from the Arava, a bottle of tonic, and treats like Lotus cookies or a half-liter bottle of Gamla wine.
The bathroom is designed in a hammam style, with decorative tiles, a double shower, a built-in stone bench, and body sprays. It even features two overhead rain showerheads, so no one has to wait in the cold while the other enjoys the hot water. The suite is adorned with iron and woodwork created by artists from Tzukim, adding a local touch and supporting the village’s artisans.
A Galilean Breakfast in the Desert
"The thought that guided us during the planning was to create harmony between the authenticity of the desert and a unique, precise, and exceptional hospitality experience," explains Yair, who, together with his wife Shira, designed the place. "We incorporated into the suite the loves and stories of our lives, delicately weaving in symbols, scents, and design elements we collected from our travels around the world, from the deserts of Mexico to the exotic culture of the Sahara Desert, and finally to the Israeli desert in the Arava. A dialogue between the indoors and outdoors, between man and nature, and listening to the needs of the guests."
Beyond that, the complex itself includes a public barbecue area, a fire pit stocked with wood on a regular basis, and, of course, a large gathering space for workshops where Lucia’s Breakfast is also served. Yair’s mother, who lives in the Galilee, added her touch to the Galilean-style breakfast—with a desert twist. The meal, which includes shakshuka, apple juice with a hint of cinnamon, fine goat cheeses, vegetables from Bein Hashitin farm in the Arava, beets, eggplant with tahini, and fresh breads, is available at an additional cost (NIS 95 per person), but don't miss it.
The Star Balcony Suite will cost, during its initial launch period until February, NIS 1,780 per couple per night on weekdays and NIS 1,980 on weekends, with a minimum stay of two nights. And honestly, you can't truly understand where you are or what you're experiencing in just one night—so make it at least two. After all, you've already made the trip!
Feel Like a Caveman for Two Hours
To truly experience the desert, I met Ben Prital from Ein Yahav at nightfall. Together with his brother, Oren, he founded "Sial" (Arabic for "acacia tree"), a center for preserving and teaching desert crafts and knowledge. They demonstrate how early humans lit fires, created knives and hunting tools from stones, foraged, made traps, identified animal tracks, and developed tools that helped them survive as the smartest creatures on the planet.
Ben also has a large collection of real desert animal tracks that he pulls out of a box. The tracks are cast in plaster, and with a large map he spreads out nearby, you can clearly identify each and every print. Afterwards, during a simple flashlight tour in the field, you can actually find tracks of gazelles, wild asses, hares, and even a pellet regurgitated by an owl or eagle owl, containing bone remnants of a rodent. He even has a rare print of a honey badger that was run over—a sight very seldom seen in Israel.
A two-hour tour costs between NIS 700 to NIS 1,000, whether for a couple or a large group. It's perfect for a few families looking to spend two enjoyable hours that the kids won’t forget. The brothers have also initiated the Desert Crafts Conference, which will take place for the third time at the end of the month in Hatzeva. The event will feature workshops on flint knapping, basket weaving, understanding bird language, tracking, and other unique and fascinating activities. For inquiries, call 053-6282481.
The German Woman Who Fed Me
Evenings begin early in the winter in the Arava. By five o'clock, the stars are already out. Culinary options in this long stretch of desert, roughly 180 kilometers to Eilat, aren’t always easy to come by. But how fortunate are the guests of the tzimmers in Tzukim, who have several dining options right at the entrance to the village near the gas station. These range from the familiar and somewhat tiresome Aroma chain, to Ham'adania - Kvish 90, an excellent spot for sandwiches and other dishes, and the crowning jewel: Prem Ursula.
The restaurant, named after Ursula (Ossi Wittner), a German who immigrated with her parents as a child from Stuttgart and eventually opened the place in the Arava, is now managed by Sraddha and Nitzan, residents of Tzukim. They serve Israeli cuisine with an emphasis on local ingredients. The Brooklyn sausages by Alan Talmor, served at Ursula’s—fitting for a place founded by a German—have already gained a reputation among locals. Recently, the restaurant introduced a new chef (Tamar), who created a fantastic tasting menu. Highlights include gnudi (ricotta cheese dumplings with leek, yogurt, butter, and Parmesan), oyster mushrooms in a mushroom broth with aioli (a true delicacy), and grilled goat cheese from the nearby Beit Ron dairy farm, baked in the oven with cherry tomato jam, walnuts, oregano, basil, and a drizzle of chili oil. Yum!
What’s great about Ursula is that it’s not kosher, meaning it’s open to guests throughout the weekend, though it’s closed on Mondays. Reservations are highly recommended, especially on long weekends, as there aren’t many good dining options in the area, and Ursula is both excellent and conveniently close. For reservations, call 08-6444421.
Have You Visited the Village?
Are you spending a Friday in Tzukim or somewhere in the central Arava? Make sure to visit the Artists’ Village in the community. For years, this village has showcased the works of local artists, mainly from Tzukim, making it a great attraction for a few leisurely afternoon hours (11:00 AM - 3:00 PM). Stroll between the various workshops, explore, and purchase sculptures and creations crafted by the artists.
One must-see is the stunning studio of Tomer Hogan, an architect and multidisciplinary artist. He creates breathtaking sculptures using desert raw materials, such as stones and wood, giving them an extraordinary interpretation through imaginative and skillful assembly.
Another spot worth visiting is Danny Tal’s music studio. Danny is a musician, creator, and drummer who imports musical instruments of all kinds. His studio features a special vintage drum set with a nostalgic sound that’s sure to impress.
The village also offers food options, from falafel served from a food truck to new Indian dishes, pizza, coffee, and even beer at Doron’s bar.
And One More Thing Before We Finish
The central Arava has been an escapist haven over the past year. Not a single missile fell in the area, and even the Houthis didn't reach it. Winter is the region's prime time, and the guesthouses are full until the end of spring. It’s an area that doesn’t really need PR, even though it has a fantastic PR office.
That said, the Arava is not just about guesthouses; it's also home to many other tourism operators, farmers, and residents who don’t get the exposure or recognition they deserve. It’s about time the Regional Council of the Central Arava invests in tourism and realizes that it's not just an economic resource, but also an awareness tool to strengthen settlement and the periphery. The southern Arava is "leading the way" in promoting tourism across nearly 200 kilometers, and it's a shame that such a stunning area like the central Arava is turning into a "guesthouse kingdom" while neglecting other tourism businesses that need to promote and market themselves with their own funds.
The writer was a guest of Zman Arava.