Tabor Winery became famous for its supermarket wines. For many years, a great number of respectable supermarket products of their kind, but by no means pretentious, filled the shelves of non-specialized wine stores. What fewer people knew during those years was that at Tabor, almost under the radar, a completely different kind of winemaking was also taking place. Original, unique, and characterful quality wines—the kind that cannot and should not be sold in supermarkets—were produced there simultaneously. No one branded it, very few knew about it, and in practice, there was essentially a boutique winery operating within a large industrial winery, at least in terms of the style and character of the wines.
About four years ago, I highlighted those Tabor wines in this column. Now, finally, in a development I had personally hoped for over a long time, the almost underground production is no longer under the radar. Under the title "Artisanal," or its full English name, Artisanal by Tabor, 19 wines were recently launched that will be distinguished from other Tabor wines and, above all, will represent a completely different type of production, also aimed at wine stores, direct sales, and restaurants.
Tabor Winery's Artisanal Series (credit: Oz Ohayon) Tabor Winery's Artisanal Series (credit: Oz Ohayon)
This move is professionally led by Or Nidbach, who took over as the winery's chief winemaker after replacing Aryeh Nesher, who held the reins for many years. Nidbach, previously a winemaker at the winery, was the driving force behind the production of those wines, as well as the now-discontinued "Eco" series, whose wines have been incorporated into the "Artisanal" portfolio.
As expected, these are not wines for everyone but rather for wine connoisseurs. Their orientation diverges from that of the new world of wine, such as Tabor's supermarket wines. These wines focus on a clear sense of variety, terroir, and growers, while also striving for a Mediterranean style. And as in a large winery with owners whose pockets are deep (Coca-Cola), the goal is to produce quality without charging exorbitantly. As a result, the price-to-quality ratio of most of the wines is very good to excellent. And that, too, is great news.
There are three series in "Artisanal"—Elements, Creation, and the high-end Desire, which currently includes only one wine. Due to space limitations, this review covers six representative bottles, though I have tasted many more. Most of the wines are high-quality, full of character, and well-made. All offer very good to excellent value for money, as only a large, well-funded winery that decides to pursue a quality line can price them. Some of the wines are truly impressive and are reviewed here. A great strategic move and a lot of quality. Kudos and cheers!
Artisanal, Elements, Sauvignon Blanc 2024
Sauvignon Blanc grapes from vineyards at the foot of Mount Tabor. Transparent golden color. Tropical fruit and citrus on the nose. Light to medium body. 12.5% alcohol by volume.
Price? NIS 65.
Best paired with: Fish, seafood, chicken.
Critic's note: Light, precise, tropical, and citrusy, with good acidity, a lean but noticeable structure, fresh and enjoyable. It deviates from the usual basic local Sauvignon Blanc wines with a commendable degree of character.
Chenin Blanc grapes from vineyards in Mitzpe Ramon. Golden color. Green apple, lime, and a hint of honey on the nose. Light to medium body. 12% alcohol by volume.
Price? NIS 65.
Best paired with: Sashimi, tartare, and white sea fish carpaccio. Plancha shrimp.
Critic's note: Delicate, not overly tropical on the palate, with precise acidity, slight crispness, lightness, and freshness. Surprising minerality.
Chardonnay grapes from the Shifon Vineyard in the Golan Heights, at an altitude of 950 meters. Fermentation and nine months of aging in French oak barrels. Golden color. White fruit (green apple) and citrus on the nose. 12.5% alcohol by volume.
Price? NIS 80.
Best paired with: Fish and seafood in butter and wine sauces, oysters, white meats.
Critic's note: Restrained fruitiness. Excellent acidity. Significant minerality. Salinity. Great dryness. A Chardonnay that is nothing less than excellent, with a pricing that is truly rare for its quality.
Value for money: 5/5 (Exceptional. Anyone who finds a Chardonnay like this at this price is welcome to contact us).
Malbec grapes from Mitzpe Ramon in the Negev. Aged 12 months in French oak barrels. Deep red color. Red fruit, flowers, and spices on the nose. Medium (or slightly lighter) body. 14% alcohol by volume.
Price? NIS 100.
Best paired with: Steaks, lamb chops, lamb stews.
Critic's note: Thin, holding elegant fruit that is not overly heavy, highly spiced but not aggressively so, rustic, earthy—almost giving the sensation of tapenade when rolled on the palate. Well-balanced. Very high gastronomic appeal. A delight.
Marselan grapes from Revadim Vineyard at the summit of the Judean Hills, at an altitude of 900 meters. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Dark red color. Red fruit and spices on the nose. Medium-full body. 13.5% alcohol by volume.
Price? NIS 100.
Best paired with: Steaks, lamb, and beef stews.
Critic's note: Well-structured body, abundant fruit, abundant spices. Power and intensity that do not necessarily manifest in overwhelming fruit or excessive sweetness. Elegance, a touch of velvety texture. A wine that has reached maturity but will expand and deepen with another two to three years of good storage. Excellent gastronomic appeal.
Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from a single vineyard on Mount Malkia, at an altitude of 750 meters. Aged 22 months in French oak barrels. Deep red color. Red fruit, tobacco, and vanilla on the nose. Full body. 13.5% alcohol by volume.
Price? NIS 180.
Best paired with: A large, well-aged cut of beef, slowly grilled over charcoal. Beef and lamb stews.
Critic's note: Big, deep, and broad. Very different from all other wines in this review, most of which adhere to a distinctly Mediterranean style. This, first and foremost, is a Bordeaux-variety wine with a massive body, expressive richness, and intensity. Relatively extroverted but not overly heavy, excellently made. Needs at least three more years to reach its peak. Expensive, but compared to flagship wines of local wineries, it is moderately priced.
Value for money: 3/5 (Not bad compared to similar wines from local wineries). Artisanal, Desire, Malkia Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (credit: TABOR WINERY.)
