As the speedboat approaches the southern shores of Koh Mak, the sight that unfolds is surprising in its stunning simplicity: Golden sand curves into crystal-clear waters, coconut trees lean towards the sea, and low huts peek through the trees. There are no skyscrapers, no noisy beach clubs, no crowds of tourists.This is Koh Mak, a small island in the Gulf of Thailand offering a rare vision of what tourism in Thailand can be. While most of the famous beaches in Thailand have become mass tourism hotspots, Koh Mak has chosen a different path.
The first thing visitors notice is what isn’t on the island – there are no large chain hotels, no giant shopping centers, no McDonald's or dozens of 7-Eleven branches, the stores found on almost every street corner in the rest of Thailand. Instead, the island is mostly flat, perfect for exploration by bike, with trails passing through rubber plantations and coconut groves. On Lam Son Beach on the island's east side, visitors will find nothing more than a hut made from coconut logs and a few lounge chairs facing a nearly empty beach.
The secret to the island's preservation lies in its unique circumstances. Unlike most islands in Thailand, Koh Mak is owned by only five families, descendants of a government official named Luang Prompakdee, who bought the island’s coconut plantations in the early 20th century. It’s not that the island doesn't want tourists; in fact, many of the locals depend on tourism, but they try to attract a certain type of visitor – those who respect others and appreciate the benefits of peaceful living.
In 2018, the island’s residents anchored their vision with the Koh Mak Charter – a document that forbids car ferries from docking on the island, limits motorbike rentals, bans loud music after 10:00 PM, prohibits noisy water sports like jet skiing, and even bans the use of foam or single-use plastic containers.
The island offers a variety of activities that reflect its approach to sustainable tourism. The Koh Mak Coral Reef Conservation Group offers snorkeling tours where visitors learn how to plant corals using recycled PVC pipes. Every Saturday, a beach cleanup campaign is led by a volunteer group called "Trash Hero," and at the island’s coconut plantation, visitors can learn how to harvest coconuts and produce cold-pressed coconut oil.
For Israeli tourists, often seeking a more authentic experience in Thailand, Koh Mak offers a chance to experience the country as it was before mass tourism. Instead of noisy parties, you can enjoy yoga on the beach, diving in beautiful coral reefs, kayaking between quiet coves, or workshops on dyeing fabrics with natural colors derived from local plants like indigo, malabar, mango, mangosteen, and coconut husks.
When to visit?
The high season in Koh Mak is from November to April, exactly when the Israeli winter is at its peak. During the low season (May to October), the island is almost empty, though boats still arrive. Some hotels close during this period, but those that remain open offer lower prices.
To get to Koh Mak, you need to fly to Bangkok and then take a bus or minivan to the Trat port (about 5 hours). From Trat, speedboats depart daily to Koh Mak (45 minutes of sailing). Alternatively, you can fly from Bangkok to Trat and then take the boat.
While Koh Mak is not immune to the challenges faced by small islands – plastic waste still washes up on its shores – its residents' thoughtful approach offers a reminder that alternative tourism is possible, one that doesn’t require sacrificing the spirit of the place on the altar of development.
So, next time you plan a trip to Thailand, consider skipping the familiar, crowded beaches. Koh Mak offers a rare opportunity to experience real Thailand – before everyone else discovers it.