Moillard Winery, France: Ultimate escapism at a sensible price
Pure enjoyment and very good value for NIS 105.
By AVI EFRATI Moillard Winery(photo credit: Moillard Winery)
Moillard is one of the well-known and classic wineries of Burgundy, established in 1850 in the prestigious village of Nuits-Saint-Georges. The Moillard family had been involved in wine—from viticulture through production to trade—since the 17th century, pre-French Revolution days. The family winery, which relies on both family-owned vineyards and external growers, is considered one of the largest and most important in the region.
Moillard is one of the well-known and classic wineries of Burgundy, established in 1850 in the prestigious village of Nuits-Saint-Georges. The Moillard family had been involved in wine—from viticulture through production to trade—since the 17th century, pre-French Revolution days. The family winery, which relies on both family-owned vineyards and external growers, is considered one of the largest and most important in the region.
When we say Burgundy, we say Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; and we say prestigious village names—like Gevrey-Chambertin and Chablis. In this tasting, seven Moillard wines from various levels are presented: From basic and moderately priced Aligoté, through Petit Chablis, Chablis, and Chablis Premier (three out of four Chablis categories), to Pinot Noir-based reds from Côte de Beaune and Gevrey-Chambertin.
It’s hard to exaggerate the qualities of classic Burgundy wines, and indeed, most of the wines in this tasting deliver exactly as they should. The Aligoté is fun, the Petit Chablis is delightful, and the Premier is excellent. One exception is the basic Chablis, Coquillage, which is good, but less so. On the red side, it’s hard to resist the Gevrey-Chambertin, though with the 2022 Gevrey, as excellent as it is, it’s advisable to let it rest a bit in the wine fridge. The more modest reds—Moillard Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2023 and Moillard Coteaux Bourguignons 2023—offer excellent value for money thanks to their undeniable quality and very reasonable pricing.
In our absurd and difficult reality, Burgundy wines offer complete escapism. Moillard’s wines deliver it most of the time at a definitely sensible price. Cheers!
Moillard, Bourgogne Aligoté 2023
Aligoté grapes from vineyards in Burgundy. Fermentation and short aging in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Golden color. Citrus and a touch of flowers on the nose. Light to medium body. 12.5% ABV.
Price: NIS 80.
Best paired with: Fish, seafood, pasta, chicken.
Critic’s note: Young, fresh, full of light and pleasant fruit.
Chardonnay grapes from Chablis, Burgundy. Fermentation and aging for about 10 months in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Golden color. Citrus and floral on the nose. Medium body. 12.5% ABV.
Price: NIS 100.
Best paired with: Fish and seafood.
Critic’s note: A basic Chablis with prominent citrus notes alongside minerality. Is it the sharpest pencil I’ve tasted from the Chablis wines currently on store shelves? No. There are wines with more significant character and stronger mineral presence. Not expensive and thus offers decent value, but there are better wines in this tasting.
Value for money: 3/5 (Not bad).
Moillard, Chablis Coquillage 2023 (credit: Moillard Winery)Moillard, Petit Chablis 2023
Chardonnay grapes from vineyards in Chablis, Burgundy. Fermentation and brief stay in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Golden color. Citrus and white fruit on the nose. Light to medium body. 12% ABV.
Price: NIS 105.
Best paired with: Fish starters (tartare, carpaccio, ceviche), chicken.
Critic’s note: Green apple, citrus, nice minerality and hints of salinity. Ostensibly a less prestigious wine than its predecessor in the review, but clearly superior in every aspect. Pure enjoyment and very good value for money.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good).
Moillard, Petit Chablis 2023 (credit: Moillard Winery)Moillard, Chablis Premier Cru 2023
Chardonnay grapes from “Premier Cru” vineyards (most of the wine comes from the Beauroy vineyard) in Chablis, Burgundy. Half the wine fermented and aged for 10 months in new and used French oak barrels. The rest fermented and remained in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Golden color. Citrus, flowers, and minerality on the nose. Medium to full body. 13% ABV.
Price: NIS 185.
Best paired with: Fish, seafood, oysters, lobster.
Critic’s note: A level or two up. Chablis Premier is just below the highest category (Grand Cru) and generally speaking, Premier Chablis wines are nothing less than excellent. This is true of the current wine, which offers complexity, a wealth of nuances, significant minerality, genre-appropriate salinity, and delightful freshness. An excellent wine that will gain even more character if rested for a year in the wine fridge. Very worthy even now.
Value for money: 2.5/5 (Not cheap, but that’s the going rate for such wines).
Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Fermentation and short aging in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Crimson red color. Red fruit on the nose. Light to medium body. 13% ABV.
Price: NIS 119.
Best paired with: Chicken in wine, minute steak, beef tartare.
Critic’s note: Relatively light, pleasant red fruit, not too heavy, spicy, elegant, and charming.
Pinot Noir grapes from Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. Fermentation and short aging in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Red color. Red fruit and flowers on the nose. Medium body. 13% ABV.
Price: NIS 139.
Best paired with: Boeuf Bourguignon, steaks.
Critic’s note: Excellent red fruit, floral, good acidity, hint of spice, elegance, and finesse. Good, lingering finish.
Pinot Noir from the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in Côte de Nuits, Burgundy. Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with frequent skin stirring. Aged 8–16 months in French oak barrels. Dark, deep red color. Black fruit, spices, leather, and earthiness on the nose. Full body. 13% ABV.
Price: NIS 285.
Best paired with: Beef and lamb stews. Large, bone-in aged cuts, slow-grilled over wood fire.
Critic’s note: Gevrey-Chambertin is one of the most famous villages in Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France, and the wine world in general. This current Gevrey leaves no room for doubt. Complexity, depth, character, refinement, a wealth of nuances, and loads of style. Gevrey-Chambertin wines are always expensive, and so is this one. As usual in this column, the value-for-money score is omitted at such price levels. The value is realistic. 2021 Moillard, Beau Versant, Gevrey Chambertin (credit: Moillard Winery)
