The family-run boutique Vitkin Winery has rightfully earned the title of a pioneer of Mediterranean winemaking in Israel and is considered one of the most original and fascinating wineries in the local wine industry.

The winery, which as early as 2002 was associated with honoring Mediterranean grape varieties—Carignan, Colombard, Viognier, and Petite Sirah—likely produces the most Israeli wines there are, or at least the most Mediterranean.

This is evident in the winemaking approach, the aromas, and the flavors of the wines, which remarkably represent Israel’s wine-growing regions.

These days, the winery is launching for the seventh time its top-tier wine: Shorashim, which is released only in exceptional years. It also presents a surprise: The first white Carignan in Israel.

Vitkin Winery (credit: Gali Eitan)
Vitkin Winery (credit: Gali Eitan)

Going Against the Grain

About 25 years ago, Doron Belogolovsky, grandson of one of the founding families of Kfar Vitkin, joined his brother-in-law, Asaf Paz, the first Israeli graduate of the enology faculty in Bordeaux. Together with Asaf’s sister and Doron’s wife, Sharona, they founded the winery.

Asaf Paz was the first in the new generation of Israeli winemakers in recent decades to choose not to make wines from Bordeaux varieties, which at the time were the mainstream of the local boutique wineries.

He was the first to return to Carignan and to very old vines that had been neglected. Asaf used varieties from Spain and southern France such as red and white Grenache, and was also among the first to label their wine as Israeli.

In order to produce wines suited to our region's conditions, a revolution was initiated—one that required the winery to fight against many prejudices.

Asaf Paz and Sharona Paz-Belogolovsky, Vitkin Winery (credit: Courtesy of the winery)
Asaf Paz and Sharona Paz-Belogolovsky, Vitkin Winery (credit: Courtesy of the winery)

Carignan. Now in White Too

Carignan is the most prominent variety at the winery. Asaf has been following it since he first encountered it in Spain. When the decision was made in 2001 to produce the first Carignan at the winery, it was out of an understanding that the variety could achieve high-quality results in our hot climate and that a wide and intriguing range of excellent wines could be produced from it.

Over the years, it has served as the backbone of the winery’s wines, forming the base of the Masa Yisraeli Adom, an element in the Masa Yisraeli Varod, the heart of Vitkin, Carignan Old Vines, and of Vitkin, Shorashim Red.

Three varieties are closely connected to the central Mediterranean region: Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvèdre—all of which were nearly lost after World War II. Carignan is a remarkable grape variety. From young Carignan, one can produce a lot of wine, but it will be simple and light.

In the vineyards of Vitkin Winery (credit: Gali Eitan)
In the vineyards of Vitkin Winery (credit: Gali Eitan)
However, when old vines are grown in a goblet shape that protects the grapes from the sun and keeps them cool, it becomes clear that evolution is likely more important than technology in the vineyard.

The most well-known Carignan wines in the world are red, though there are some Carignan Gris in Europe and very few white Carignans.

Vitkin Winery is now launching the first white Carignan in the country, Blanc de Carignan, a white wine made from black grapes, which, according to Asaf, is: “A mirror image of the red Carignan, almost 25 years after the first Carignan we made, and they laughed at us.”

Vitkin, Blanc de Carignan 2024

A fresh, sharp, crisp, and aromatic wine, with scents of flowers, citrus, and white fruits. A wonderful, surprising, and appealing texture in the mouth, excellent acidity, and a fairly long and pleasant finish.

Price: NIS 125

Shorashim, Vitkin Winery’s flagship series (credit: Courtesy of the winery)
Shorashim, Vitkin Winery’s flagship series (credit: Courtesy of the winery)

Back to the Roots

According to the winery, Shorashim is “Vitkin Winery’s ultra-premium series, where the winemaker tries to distill his winemaking philosophy and express intensity wrapped in elegant harmony. With Shorashim wines, it is necessary and worthwhile to wait a few years until they become accessible. The wine is released only in exceptional and particularly good years, in a limited edition, and has a long life span.”

Each edition of Shorashim is marked with a Hebrew letter and dedicated to one of the family roots or someone close to it, with each edition presenting a different foundational story. This year marks the release of Shorashim Zayin, dedicated to Doron’s father, Ben-Zion Belogolovsky, who was involved in the winery’s activities.

Shorashim, Vitkin Winery’s flagship series (credit: Courtesy of the winery)
Shorashim, Vitkin Winery’s flagship series (credit: Courtesy of the winery)

A Wine with Character

The seventh Shorashim is made from three stable varieties: oOld vine Carignan from the Alona area, old vine Petite Sirah from the slopes of the Judean Hills, and a smaller percentage of Petit Verdot from the Upper Galilee.

Additionally, Colombard was added and fermented together with the Carignan—something that once happened by accident and turned out to be beneficial. The wine aged for 26 months in new barrels, an uncommon practice at Vitkin Winery.

“The wine was extremely powerful, and we wanted to give it time to soften and develop,” explains Asaf. After an additional four and a half years of aging in the bottle, it is now being released.

Vitkin, Shorashim Zayin, 2018

As in previous editions, the wine faithfully expresses the grape varieties from the three regions where they were harvested, as well as the character of the precise harvest. A powerful yet not heavy wine, complex and rich, with aromas of black fruit, floral notes, and Mediterranean spices.

The palate is rich and deep, with fresh acidity and pleasant minerality, berry fruit, floral notes, and earthiness. The finish is rich, complex, long, and elegant.

Price: NIS 450