Single vineyard wines, or “kerem yechidani” in Hebrew, are produced from grapes sourced from a single vineyard plot. This plot is chosen for its exceptional fruit quality, derived from its location, soil composition, vine age and variety, and unique microclimate.
A vineyard identified for such exceptional fruit will form the basis for single vineyard wines. The winemaker who receives these high-quality grapes will strive not to impair the fruit with excessive winemaking techniques, opting instead for more “gentle” wine production processes.
Beyond the quality of the fruit, producing wine from a single vineyard plot conveys confidence—or at least the courage to declare that from this specific vineyard, as stated on the bottle, they have produced a wine unparalleled in the world, a unique and extraordinary wine. Therefore, significant resources are often invested in its production, hoping to capture the essence of the vineyard in the wine.
The Return of Riesling
Riesling, one of the six noble grape varieties alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, originates from Germany. Due to its unique aromatic structure, high acidity, and resilience to extreme climate conditions, it is known as one of the most versatile grape varieties.
Riesling can produce wines ranging from dry to sweet, sparkling to still, young and light to aged and complex. Though it hails from cold Germany, Riesling can thrive in various climates, each imparting a slightly different character and aromatic profile.
For petrol station enthusiasts, this variety is particularly beloved because, with some bottle aging, it develops a unique petrol aroma. To avoid overshadowing its natural range of aromas and flavors, winemaking is clean, with no aggressive oak usage.
From the 19th century to the mid-20th century, German white Riesling wines were the toast of European royalty and nobility, culturally and economically valued on par with Bordeaux wines from France.
After World War II, due to a severe wine shortage, large quantities of poor-quality wines were produced from grapes harvested early and not fully ripe. The result was bad wines with sharp, unpleasant acidity, lacking body and volume. To make them more palatable, producers added sweet must, resulting in sweet, thin, and uninteresting Riesling wines that tarnished the variety’s reputation.
Over the years, German wineries returned to producing concentrated and complex quality wines, as did wineries in Austria, France, and other parts of the world.
Although not among the top ten most planted grape varieties globally, Riesling has recently gained renewed recognition and appreciation due to its diverse and excellent wines and some effective public relations in the right places.
In addition to its natural growing regions in Germany and Alsace, France, it can now be found in almost every wine-producing country globally. Sometimes, regions like Finger Lakes in New York State emerge, with their Riesling wines starring in the most fashionable spots in New York City.
Given Riesling’s excellent expression of its growing location, I spoke with Yiftach Peretz, the chief winemaker at Carmel Winery, about two Riesling wines from their Single Vineyard series from two vineyards: Kayoumi Vineyard in the Upper Galilee and Har Avital Vineyard in the Golan Heights.
“Grape varieties are a bit like people; we also have terroir,” says Yiftach. “Some people feel good everywhere, and some need a very specific environment to feel their best.”
“Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, for example, need their natural environment and are very difficult to grow outside their native regions.”
“Riesling, on the other hand, adapts well to many regions, but you need to know how to grow it because it is very sensitive to rot. On fertile soil, it rots immediately.”
Carmel Winery, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi Vineyard Riesling 2017
Kayoumi Vineyard is located in the Upper Galilee, north of Meron Junction, on hard limestone and shallow terra rossa soil. The Riesling is planted on a southeast-facing slope exposed to morning sun that dries the dew and reduces humidity in the vineyard. The Riesling plot is planted at the upper part of the large vineyard, at an altitude of 750 meters above sea level.
It quickly develops petrol notes, making the final wine very clear in its Riesling character. The vineyard is no longer owned by Carmel Winery, but there are still a few bottles left from the 2017 harvest, signed by the previous chief winemaker of Carmel, Lior Laxer, who also ended his tenure that year. The farmer, Kobi Arens, managed to achieve good results despite the difficulty in preventing rot.
How is the wine?
Completely dry with 12% alcohol. Its color is golden, and it has intense aromas of loquat, pear, and ripe peach alongside limestone, a hint of the variety's characteristic petrol, and a slight honey note due to its age.
On the palate, it features ripe fruit and slight petrol-like minerality with a light bitterness on the finish and medium acidity. The texture is slightly rough, and it seems that the wine, now seven years old, has aged gracefully, still sharp, with added layers of texture, aromas, and flavors over the years.
A very enjoyable Israeli Riesling, especially for lovers of aged whites. Again, noting that there are not many bottles left. Price: NIS 100.
Carmel Winery, Single Vineyard, Har Avital Vineyard Riesling 2017
The vineyard is planted west of Mount Avital and Bental in the northern Golan Heights on poor, deep soil with a lot of volcanic ash and clay. The well-drained soil keeps the surface dry, as Riesling likes, and quickly absorbs rainwater, while the clay retains minerals and water below the surface, so there is almost no need for irrigation.
At an altitude of 900 meters above sea level, the grape ripening is relatively late, giving them enough time to develop a wide range of aromas and flavors.
The 2022 ripening season was excellent, according to Yiftach. While most parts of the country suffered from rot, the Riesling from Har Avital does not have classic flavors. It is softer and more refined, less petrol-like and loud.
A short maceration on the skins before alcoholic fermentation gave the wine an interesting roughness, and brief aging in barrels opened it up and added complexity.
How is the wine?
Dry with 12% alcohol, straw-colored, and high aromas of white flowers, jasmine, orange peel, white peach, and wet stone (even a bit of tar), very fragrant.
In the mouth, it has high acidity and a rough, slightly oily texture with a long finish. The taste maintains pleasant floral notes, sharpness, minerality, and complexity.
It’s enjoyable to drink now but can age and develop wonderfully in the bottle. A wine for a good meal. Price: NIS 100.