Tucked between the bustling streets of northern Jerusalem, perched on a ridge overlooking the Arab neighborhood of Shuafat, stands Ramat Shlomo – a neighborhood that has evolved from political controversy and urban planning debates into a vibrant haredi (ultra-Orthodox) community. What began as a battleground for competing visions of Jerusalem’s future has, over time, grown into a flourishing enclave, home to thousands of families, with a multitude of synagogues and deep historical significance.
A neighborhood born from political and religious tensions
The history of Ramat Shlomo is not one of quiet suburban expansion. Before the first bricks were laid, the area was slated to be the site of an ambitious sports project championed by then-Jerusalem mayor Teddy Kollek in the 1970s. He envisioned a national sports complex on what was initially called Shuafat Ridge, complete with an Olympic-standard soccer stadium, sports halls, swimming pools, and training fields.
While the secular establishment saw this as a game changer for northern Jerusalem, the ultra-Orthodox community saw it as a cultural and religious threat. The haredi leadership, backed by political figures and grassroots activists, vehemently opposed the idea. Concerns ranged from Sabbath violations due to game-day traffic to objections over soccer being viewed as a form of idolatry.
As opposition mounted, protests turned into sabotage. Ultra-Orthodox activists, including Yehuda Meshi-Zahav, later known as the founder of ZAKA, recounted how they would secretly climb to the ridge at night and scatter sand and stones into the engines of bulldozers to delay and disrupt construction.
Political pressure followed, with the Agudat Yisrael Party withdrawing from the municipal coalition, forcing prime minister Menachem Begin to freeze the project. After years of delays, protests, and backroom deals, the stadium project was officially canceled, and the land was reallocated – not for a secular sports hub but for a haredi residential neighborhood.
With the stadium project scrapped, the government turned to housing developers to create an ultra-Orthodox neighborhood. By 1989, then-finance minister Shimon Peres approached the Reichmann family Canadian real estate group to develop the area. In 1990, a deal was signed with the Israel Lands Authority, and 2,400 housing units were planned.
From the beginning, the project was marketed to haredi families, with units allocated through seven different ultra-Orthodox housing associations.
However, legal disputes soon followed. Arab landowners challenged the project, arguing that their lands had been expropriated for the stadium and not for a Jewish neighborhood. Meanwhile, activists demanded fair housing allocation, arguing that eligibility should be determined by the Housing Ministry rather than political affiliations.
Despite these challenges, construction moved forward, and by the late 1990s Ramat Shlomo was fully inhabited.
Corruption scandals and mismanagement
By 1997, the neighborhood was thriving, but investigations revealed a deep web of corruption in the housing allocation process. Housing associations were accused of replacing eligible buyers with politically connected individuals. Government minister Eli Yishai purchased an apartment meant for low-income residents, flipping it for a $100,000 profit. Close relatives of deputy housing minister Meir Porush secured prime real estate through housing associations tied to Agudat Yisrael. A massive illegal construction scheme was uncovered, in which developers created secret underground spaces within the hillsides, effectively doubling the size of homes without permits.
As a result, both the police and the State Comptroller’s Office launched criminal investigations. Some projects were halted, and the courts ordered demolition of illegal structures.
Despite early challenges, Ramat Shlomo continued to expand. In 2010, the government approved an additional 1,600 housing units.
However, the timing of the announcement – during then-US vice president Joe Biden’s visit to Israel – sparked an international diplomatic crisis. The United States and the European Union condemned the expansion, leading Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu to freeze construction for two years.
Infrastructure also became a challenge. It was initially designed as a cul-de-sac neighborhood with a single access point, but residents demanded better connectivity. Over time, Highway 21 was constructed, providing a second entrance to the neighborhood. A new interchange was built at the main entrance, with a planned connection to Har Hotzvim (Highway 22), improving access and alleviating traffic congestion.
Ramat Shlomo today
Today, Ramat Shlomo is a center of haredi life in Jerusalem. The Chabad community, established in 1992 by Yaakov Shneur, consists of approximately 120 families and features a synagogue modeled after the World Headquarters of Chabad at 770 Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn, New York. Though predominantly ultra-Orthodox, Ramat Shlomo is also home to a small but dedicated Religious Zionist community, primarily residing along Rabbi Uzi Kalchheim Street and praying at the Edmond Safra Synagogue.
The neighborhood is home to several prestigious Torah institutions, including Mir Yeshiva for Young Students; Torat Moshe Yeshiva; Lev Eliyahu Yeshiva; and Avnei Nezer Yeshiva. It also features numerous synagogues catering to hassidic, Lithuanian, and Sephardi communities, reflecting the diverse spectrum of the ultra-Orthodox world.
As of the end of 2024, Ramat Shlomo’s population was 18,858, which included 8,513 children under the age of 18, and some 1,104 over the age of 65.
Beyond its modern haredi character, Ramat Shlomo is a site of historical significance. During excavations in 2007, archaeologists uncovered a massive quarry spanning 0.5 hectares (1.25 acres). The stones extracted there, some measuring 5-6 meters in length, closely resemble those used in the Western Wall, leading some to speculate that the site was part of an ancient Jewish construction project. A unique stone-splitting tool was also discovered, along with coins and pottery from the 1st century CE, offering insight into ancient building techniques. Near the outskirts of the neighborhood, archaeologists also found an ancient winepress, suggesting that the area was once used for large-scale wine production.
The story of Ramat Shlomo is one of transformation, controversy, and resilience. What was once a battleground for political and religious struggles has evolved into a bustling ultra-Orthodox community, rich in Torah institutions and historical significance.
Despite its tumultuous beginnings, Ramat Shlomo today represents the ever-changing landscape of Jerusalem – a city where history, religion, and politics intertwine.