Are you feeling overwhelmed by the constant influx of news? This month, discover the true beauty of landscape photography – a serene escape from the daily routine. Through your camera lens, explore the tranquil beauty of the Dead Sea. Whether seeking creative inspiration or a mental reset, landscape photography offers a quiet getaway from the daily grind. So, pack your gear, leave your worries behind, and let’s dive into the timeless allure of the Dead Sea.
The Dead Sea offers unique photographic opportunities year round. All the pictures in this article were taken in the summer. For those who struggle with heat, consider visiting in the cooler months from October to April for excellent light and comfortable conditions. Whether you decide on a day trip or an overnight stay at one of the many options in Ein Bokek/Neveh Zohar, this guide assumes you are overnighting and will shoot at sunrise.
Historical significance
Qasr al-Yahud, or The Citadel of the Jews, is a site of profound historical and religious importance. According to tradition, this is where John the Baptist baptized Jesus, making it a revered location for Christian pilgrims. The site also plays a significant role in the Book of Joshua, as it is believed to be one of the crossing points for the Israelites as they entered the Promised Land. Additionally, it is considered the site where the prophet Elijah ascended to heaven. Located southeast of Jericho in the West Bank, Qasr al-Yahud has been under Israeli military control since the Six Day War in 1967 and is currently administered by the Israeli Ministry of Tourism as part of the national park system.
Navigation: Try Waze first, but note that it may not operate correctly during conflicts in parts of the West Bank. Here are the directions from Jerusalem: Take Route 60 through the tunnel from Jerusalem, then follow Route 1 south toward the Dead Sea. Turn left onto Route 90 north, then turn right after 5.9 km to reach the baptismal site. Park your car near the souvenir/refreshment kiosk. There are no fees for parking or entrance. If you see tourist buses in the parking lot, the Jordan River will have priests and pilgrims administering the baptism rites.
Walking to the river, you will see an outdoor structure used as a prayer site. Walk beyond that down the first set of stairs. Position yourself at the top of the stairs for a wide-angle shot. The elevated perspective captures the entire scene, from the historic river to the distant shrines on the Jordanian side, framed perfectly by the lush trees. It gives you the height needed to capture the scene and, most importantly, it maintains a respectful distance from people undergoing a ritual that is meaningful and sacred to them. The reward for being thoughtful is getting a better, more natural picture.
Evaluating the scene
Take time to understand the place and the scene. Notice the rope in the water. This is the actual border dividing line between Israel and Jordan. You can practically touch Jordan. There are shrines on the Jordanian side, and trees and people scattered on the Israeli side.
Photography tips for Qasr al-Yahud:
- Use HDR (high dynamic range) photography to capture balanced exposures, especially in high-contrast scenes where the bright sky and the darker foreground of people and trees are difficult to photograph effectively.
- Respect rituals: Respect comfort zones and avoid intruding on rituals.
We are now off to our next destination, Ein Kedem.
Ein Kedem
Getting there: Head back on Route 90 south, and at the traffic light turn left onto Route 1 for a five-minute ride until you reach the gas station.
Waze: Ein Kedem Springs. From the start of Route 90 (gas station), drive south 37 km. The last intersection before your destination on the left is Ma’aleh Sadkim. Park in the parking area and walk to Ein Kedem.
Ein Kedem is a hidden gem. Despite occasional debris, the natural beauty is stunning. Pink mountains reflect in clear waters, and unique salt formations line the shore. It’s a sight to behold. Amid the natural beauty, the sight of a discarded tire was a poignant reminder of our responsibility to preserve these landscapes.
What makes this location remarkable are the nearby pools of water and hot springs that have bubbled up. Take your time photographing these pools. They are lovely. Just watch your step and take care. If you want to come at sunset or at night when the pools are dramatically lit, do so only with a guide. Do not go alone. There may be sinkholes in this area. You must be physically fit for the 20-minute trek from the parking lot. Take lots of water with you. After photographing this location, jump into the water; you’ve earned it. Now fully rested and refreshed, it’s time to head to our next location, Neveh Zohar.
Getting there: Continue on Route 90 south, passing the Ein Bokek hotel district. After you pass the hotel district, there is a fork in the road; take the left turn, which continues Route 90, and you will see a Delek gas station. Depending on conditions, behind the gas station is a dirt road where you can park off to the side. Here you can walk up to the shoreline to access weird and wonderful salt formations. Note that depending on the day, heavy earth movers may be on that track of the road. If you are blocked, go directly to the Neveh Zohar Beach area. You can go back to it later.
Neveh Zohar
The air at Neveh Zohar is filled with the crisp, mineral scent of salt, mingling with the earthy aroma of the surrounding desert. The intense sunlight glistens off the salt-crusted ground, creating a dazzling spectacle that dances before your eyes. But bright salt and deep blue-green waters create a dramatic contrast that can be challenging to capture. The intense sunlight reflecting off the salt-crusted surface and water can result in unwanted reflections and glare, making optimal exposure and contrast challenging. A polarizing filter is invaluable here to manage reflections and enhance colors. Here, I suggest using a medium wide-angle lens. The rocky and uneven terrain around the Dead Sea can make it difficult to access certain areas or find stable footing for setting up tripods or composing hand-held shots. Leave flip-flops and sandals in the car. Good hiking shoes are advised when walking on rocky and muddy surfaces.
Sunset from the beach
If you are not staying overnight for sunrise photography, wait until sunset before heading home. Drive to any beach behind the hotels, set your camera on a tripod, and wait for the sun to set over the Jordanian mountains. It’s an image you don’t want to miss.
You can take sunrise photographs from Ein Bokek or Neveh Zohar Beach. Both are free and accessible 24/7. Arriving at the beach about 30 minutes before sunrise will give you ample time to set up your tripod and frame your shot. The rapidly changing light requires quick adjustments, so be ready to capture the fleeting magic as the sun emerges over the Jordanian mountains.
Photo tip: When pressing the shutter trigger, there may be a vibration or shaking, which will ruin the photo by throwing it out of focus. Invest in an inexpensive cable release. It is a required tool for anyone serious about landscape photography. If you don’t have one or can’t get one, the workaround is to program your camera to delay taking the picture by two seconds after you press the shutter trigger. It achieves the same result.
Returning again
The Dead Sea’s landscape is ever-changing, offering new photographic challenges and rewards each visit. Over my 40 visits, returning to the same spots allowed for a deeper connection and fresh perspective. Every change in light, weather, and season reveals different facets of this extraordinary place. Embrace the opportunity to explore and experiment, capturing the timeless beauty of the Dead Sea.
What is true for the Dead Sea is equally true for all landscape sites we will visit. Revisiting landscape locations we’ve been to before allows us to deepen our understanding of the landscape, noticing subtleties we might have missed on a first visit. This familiarity breeds creativity, enabling us to experiment with different compositions and techniques. As we photographers grow and change, so do our interpretations of these scenes, leading to stronger, more nuanced images infused with a more profound sense of connection. In essence, each return trip is not just a repeat visit but an opportunity to capture the timeless beauty of a place through the fresh, ever-evolving lens of personal experience.■
Jay Garfinkel is a Jerusalem fine art, still life, and landscape photographer who has exhibited widely in the United States and Israel. His work has been featured in Landscape Photography Magazine and Lens Culture Magazine. To view his work: https://jaygarfinkel.zenfolio.com/ © 2024 Jay Garfinkel