Carmel Winery: At this price, few wines offer better value

Exactly what a respected, large winery should deliver.

  (photo credit: PR)
(photo credit: PR)

The portfolio of Carmel Winery, one of Israel's two largest wineries, is packed with wines at all price levels—from inexpensive supermarket wines to high-end, expensive bottles. From wines for everyone to wines for connoisseurs. This review focuses on those not found in supermarkets, representing a commitment to maximum expression of variety and terroir.

Yiftach Peretz, Carmel's chief winemaker, is behind a wide range of styles. It can be assumed that the wines reviewed here reflect something of his personal taste and worldview. All the reviewed wines are excellent. They represent three series, all found exclusively in wine shops: "Vineyards" (NIS 80), "Single Vineyard" (NIS 120), and "Signature" (NIS 150-160).

The two "Vineyards" wines reviewed here, a white and a red (Chardonnay and Syrah-Grenache), offer very good to excellent value for money, with quality comparable to wines priced NIS 20 to NIS 40 higher. The "Single Vineyard" wines (Riesling Mount Avital and Chardonnay Tel Machfi) step up a notch, providing abundant quality that makes them relevant for any significant meal. The "Signature" wines (Syrah Beton and Mediterranean) are high and impressive for relatively little money.

This is exactly what a respected, large winery should know how to provide alongside its mass-consumption wines—unconventional, high-quality wines with a clear statement at reasonable prices. The production is classic, committed to "Old World" values with clear Mediterranean accents. Sipping them with appropriate food offers pure pleasure. Look for them in wine shops. Cheers!

Carmel, Vineyards, Judean Hills, Chardonnay 2022

  (credit: EYAL KEREN)
(credit: EYAL KEREN)

100% Chardonnay from vineyards in the Jerusalem corridor (Mevo Beitar, Shoresh, and Beit Zayit) in the Judean Hills. Fermentation and aging for several months on the lees in French oak barrels. Golden color. On the nose, white and yellow fruit, herbal notes. Medium-full body. 13% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 80.

Best for: Fish, calamari, pasta, chicken.

Reviewer’s notes: Good fruit, not too extroverted, enjoyable balanced acidity, sharpness, precision, very high gastronomic index. Chardonnay-Chardonnay. A food wine that offers excellent value for money. Bravo!

Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).

Carmel, Vineyards, Judean Hills, Syrah-Grenache 2021

  (credit: EYAL KEREN)
(credit: EYAL KEREN)

80% Syrah from Mevo Beitar vineyard and 20% Grenache from Shoresh vineyard, both in the Jerusalem Hills. Fermentation and gentle pressing in stainless steel tanks, followed by 14 months in French oak barrels. Slightly purplish red color, with red fruit and spices on the nose. Medium body. 15% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 80.

Best for: Beef tartare and carpaccio, barbecue, chicken, pizza.

Reviewer’s notes: Pleasant fruit, plenty of spices, plenty of character. The 15% alcohol is not noticeable on the palate. Relatively light (medium body only), the wine is not "chewy" and is clearly meant to complement the food without overpowering it. Although it belongs to the relatively light wine category and is intended for relatively light food, it will hold up well with any respectable steak. Like its counterpart in the review, the Chardonnay from the Judean Hills, this wine excellently expresses the terroir of the Judean Hills.

Value for money: 4/5 (Very good).

Carmel, Single Vineyards, Mount Avital, Riesling 2022

  (credit: EYAL KEREN)
(credit: EYAL KEREN)

100% Riesling from Mount Avital vineyard in the northern Golan Heights. Fermentation and six months aging in 50% French oak barrels and 50% stainless steel. Golden color. On the nose, citrus, white fruit (green apple), and a bit of tropical fruit. Full body. 12% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 120.

Best for: Ceviche, fish tartare, spicy Asian food, sushi and sashimi, fish in butter sauce, and pork-based dishes.

Reviewer’s notes: Muscular and "built" body. At this stage in the wine’s life, very young in Riesling terms, the dominant feature is its fruitiness—citrus, flowers, and more; alongside comprehensive, very good balancing acidity. Additionally, there is a distinct, charming minerality. Like any good Riesling, two to seven years from now, it will develop a petrol note. An excellent wine with great versatility in terms of food pairing. It will be fascinating to drink it again in two to three years (and again in 5-6 years).

Value for money: 4/5 (Very good).

Carmel, Single Vineyards, Tel Machfi, Chardonnay 2022

  (credit: EYAL KEREN)
(credit: EYAL KEREN)

100% Chardonnay from a vineyard near Tel Machfi in the northern Golan Heights. Fermentation and aging on the lees for six months in French oak barrels. Deep golden color. On the nose, citrus and flowers. Full body. 13.5% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 120.

Best for: Fish and seafood. Shellfish. Lobster, pork.

Reviewer’s notes: Massive body, prominent acidity profile, sharp and excellent. White fruit (green apple and pear), a touch of minerality, hints of salinity. A serious Chardonnay full of character and presence.

Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good).

Carmel, Signature, Syrah Beton 2019

  (credit: EYAL KEREN)
(credit: EYAL KEREN)

100% Syrah from Ein Zeitim/Idra vineyard in Dalton, Upper Galilee. Fermentation and aging in concrete tanks. No oak. Deep and slightly transparent red color. On the nose, red fruit, black fruit, and spices. Medium body. 14.5% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 150.

Best for: Steaks, aged cuts on the bone, lamb chops. Also dark chocolate, strawberries, semi-hard and mature cheeses.

Reviewer’s notes: A high red wine where the choice was made to forgo the use of oak barrels, this is a "winemaker's choice" wine—one that reflects his personal signature. Certainly in Israel, where the general public's taste leans toward oak and more oak. This Syrah, nothing short of wonderful, shows how great it is that a large, industrial winery also gives its professional the freedom to innovate. This wine retains its natural varietal characteristics with minimal oak influence. It maintains relative lightness, prominent and elegant fruit and spice characteristics, and excellent clarity and purity. It pairs well with all kinds of meat, but the author enjoyed it with chocolate and strawberries. It was wonderful.

Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good).

Carmel, Signature, Mediterranean 2020

  (credit: EYAL KEREN)
(credit: EYAL KEREN)

54% Carignan, 29% Grenache, 16% Tannat, and 1% Syrah from vineyards in the Galilee, Judean Hills, and Samaria. Each of the wines aged separately for 7 months, and after blending, the wine aged an additional 8 months (total 15 months aging). Deep dark red color. On the nose, red fruit, a bit of black fruit, spices, and Provençal herbs. Medium-full body. 15% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 160.

Best for: Lamb chops, lamb stews, aged beef cuts on the bone.

Reviewer’s notes: It’s always a pleasure to encounter Carmel's classic Mediterranean blend, released after significant barrel aging and additional bottle aging. The body is not completely full and the fruit is not overly abundant. Excellent acidity. Plenty of layers of seasoning, complexity, elegance, velvetiness, power versus softness, and a lot of character and style.

Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good. Not cheap but provides equivalent value to significantly more expensive local wines).