It’s unclear how a salty-food lover like me fell for sweetness, but it all started one afternoon when I sat at a bar and had a slightly sweet sherry before my meal. Another time, I was offered port after refusing dessert, and it hit just the right spot. That’s when I realized that even though it’s not very popular around here, port is a world of its own.
Maybe it’s because I’ve been drinking a lot of vermouth and fortified wines lately, discovering a whole new world. I didn’t realize how much I loved it until one afternoon when I sat down with Eyal Mermelstein, chef and owner of Tchernichovsky 6 restaurant and its wine shop, which offers an impressive selection of Portuguese wines.
After grilling him about the wines and grape varieties he carefully selects—Eyal was the pioneer who put Portuguese wines on the Israeli map—I asked to buy a few new reds from one of my favorite Portuguese wineries, Niepoort. In response, he poured me a glass of port.
It’s funny because I’ve tasted almost every Niepoort wine in one way or another, except for their ports, which are among the most highly regarded in Portugal and the world.
Mermelstein explains that unlike regular wines, the fortified wine sector in Israel isn’t a major source of income—not for port and not for Madeira, another Portuguese fortified wine that’s slightly more refined.
We Need to Talk About This
"People in Israel barely drink dessert wines, even though they’re incredibly tasty. I don’t see why you wouldn’t finish a meal with a glass of port or Madeira. Why is it totally normal to order dessert but not a drink to go with it?"
And he’s right. When we’re in Europe, we know to order grappa at the end of a meal, but here, probably due to the association with kiddush wines, people shy away from fortified wines.
"It’s a matter of awareness," he adds, and he’s already convinced me. "You have to offer it, and it’s really important to me that people and restaurants start doing that. If you talk about it, people will try it—because at the end of the day, people come to enjoy themselves, and port and Madeira are drinks meant for pleasure."
Sherry, Madeira, or Port?
Among fortified wines, sherry is the most bitter, port is sweet, and Madeira is a blend of both in terms of taste. So if you’re not into sweetness, go for Madeira or sherry, but if you want something to round off your meal with a bit of sweetness, a well-balanced port will do the trick.
Another great reason to keep these drinks at home is that they hardly ever expire. Port (as long as it’s not a vintage port) can stay open for six months, and a bottle of Madeira even longer. So there’s no pressure to finish it within a week—you can sip on it little by little.
By the way, if you pour some port into a tall glass filled with ice and add a lemon wedge, you’ll get a wonderfully complex and refreshing drink.
To-Do: Winter Drinks
The first recommendation is, of course, Niepoort. I tasted the Niepoort 10 Dry Tawny Port, a very balanced port with excellent flavor concentration and none of that unpleasant aftertaste that some fortified wines have. It’s spicy, delicious, and even has a slight acidity. A great choice for those trying port for the first time and looking for something balanced without being too overpowering.
The second is Porto Cruz, and once again, I automatically recommend the 10-year-old version, which has been aged for a decade in oak barrels. It features red grapes, spices, depth, and everything you’d want in a great wine—only much more concentrated. In my opinion, this port pairs well with main courses and complements our local cuisine beautifully.
As for Madeira, I completely fell in love with Malvasia 10 by Barbeito, and there’s no doubt I’ll be keeping a bottle on my counter this season. It’s sweet with a lemony twist, meaning it’s not overly sweet. Aged for 10 years in French oak barrels, it has 19% alcohol and offers a perfect balance of honey and citrus flavors that keep the sweetness in check.