Stephane Aviron is a winery that is a pleasure to write about. It operates in Beaujolais, Burgundy, and, as is customary there, focuses on Gamay grapes. The wines of the region have been branded worldwide based on their young, fruity, and simple style, which is widely marketed in the autumn. However, evaluating Beaujolais solely on the basis of its entry-level wines is a mistake. To draw a parallel with the Israeli wine scene, it would be like judging Carmel or Golan Heights Winery based only on their "Selected" or "Mount Hermon" wines.
Stephane Aviron represents a welcome return to the local tradition of Beaujolais. All the wines are organic and biodynamic, and winemaking follows classic Burgundy techniques. Every wine is produced from old vines—Vielles Vignes—that are at least 40 years old, and they are all released after several years of aging. In a changing wine world, with notable shifts even in classic wine countries and regions, this winery presents one of the most authentic and delightful expressions imaginable. The wines are expressive, and the years of aging (even the Beaujolais-Villages here is from 2021) lend them depth and character, making drinking them a truly joyful experience for enthusiasts of this style.
The price-to-quality ratio, which in most reviews tends to decrease as bottle prices rise, seems to work in reverse here. The more expensive wines—though let's be honest, expensive here means 103 or 113 shekels—actually offer the highest value. These wines have an abundance of character, deep and authentic tradition, and beautiful fruit that comes from excellent terroir. The winery, due to its lack of flashy branding, is able to keep its prices low. Those who appreciate wines of this style will love them. In my opinion, this is also the perfect wine for the current season—a winter that doesn’t quite feel like winter. Cheers!
Stephane Aviron, Beaujolais-Villages Vielles Vignes 2021
Price: NIS 79.
Best paired with: Starters of all kinds, sandwiches, pasta, chicken.
Critic’s note: Light, full of red fruit, cheerful and fun but still full of character.
Value for money: 3/5 (Not bad).
Stephane Aviron, Chénas Vielles Vignes 2021
Price: NIS 88.
Best paired with: Beef tartare and carpaccio, grilled meats, aged cheeses.
Critic’s note: Good fruit, not overwhelming, well-balanced with a nice acidity profile and a surprising level of complexity relative to its modest ambitions and pricing.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good).
Stephane Aviron, Fleurie Vielles Vignes, Domaine de la Madrière 2021
Price: NIS 103.
Best paired with: Dishes based on white meats (chicken, pork), veal, roast beef, meat sandwiches.
Critic’s note: Excellent fruit profile—present but not overpowering or overly ripe; complemented by a subtle spice note. The softness of this wine is evident from the first sip to the finish. An excellent food wine.
Value for money: 4/5 (Very good).
Stephane Aviron, Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2020
Price: NIS 103.
Best paired with: Steaks, stews.
Critic’s note: A step up in body, this wine already feels somewhat meaty, with excellent fruit, great acidity, soft tannins, and outstanding gastronomic potential. Surprisingly, as the wines increase in price, their value-for-money ratio actually improves. An excellent value for NIS 103.
Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).
Stephane Aviron, Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes 2021
Price: NIS 113.
Best paired with: Steaks, stews, aged bone-in cuts.
Critic’s note: Black fruit dominates here, with spice, pronounced acidity, clear earthiness, a hint of minerality, and excellent dryness. The wine is not heavy, with a sharpness that softens after aeration. Full of character and exceptional gastronomic appeal. Quite an impressive value at NIS 113.
Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).