I’ve previously written about the incredible transformation of Jerusalem Boulevard since the light rail began operating. From its controversial inception in the early 20th century due to envy of Rothschild Boulevard, it has evolved into a pleasant and quiet gem that combines tourism, history, urbanity, and convenience, while still retaining the rugged charm of Jaffa that we all love.
For years, a key spot for wine lovers has been located just beyond the Salame Station in an inviting space. A few steps off the train, and you enter a different world filled with fine wines and a refined kitchen. I am, of course, talking about "Par Derrière," the wine bar now celebrating its 14th anniversary, introducing a new chef and a new menu.
"Our secret has always been the hospitality," says Itai Shalom, who has been with Par Derrière for 13 years, since it started on King George Street in the heart of Tel Aviv (after a few years it moved to its current location in Jaffa). For the past six years, he’s also been one of the owners. "We always emphasize down-to-earth hospitality with a very pleasant atmosphere. It works for us because we see many returning customers from all age groups and demographics."
He describes "many midweek dates" at the bar or small tables, alongside groups at larger tables and many families coming for brunches and dinners. "It’s never one-dimensional," he emphasized. "You didn’t come here just to eat well or enjoy a bottle of wine; it has always been a complete, pleasant, and quality experience."
Shalom explains that the new menu aims to cater to the wide range of guests, "with prices as affordable as possible," as he puts it. This brings us to the new chef of Par Derrière, Yoav Shmueli, 28, who came from the Talbiyeh restaurant group in Jerusalem. His cooking is influenced by and based on French cuisine with a love for the Mediterranean.
"The previous menu was a mish-mash of a sort of French bistro with everything," Shmueli explains the change. "We had pizza, burgers, 30 dishes for lunch and dinner, a variety that spread in all directions. I stopped that and unified the menu into something more cohesive and interesting. Yes, it’s a wine bar that wants to serve food that aligns with French cuisine, but also a large restaurant that, at certain times, needs to cater to families and children. With the courtyard and all the spaces, we can feed 200 guests simultaneously. So, we can’t serve just small dishes intended for dates over a glass of wine."
When you start talking to Shmueli about the menu, he enjoys (like any quality kitchen person) talking about his suppliers. "We have the best vegetable suppliers, and we work with organic chicken from Meshek Melamed. If you don't invest in the basics, nothing else matters," he clarified.
A look at the menu reveals well-crafted dishes like oven-baked chestnut pumpkin stuffed with Sicilian vegetable stew served on baked lentils for NIS 78, fisherman’s soup with white fish, seafood, root vegetables, and saffron for NIS 84, and meticulously prepared pastas such as pappardelle with wild mushrooms, white wine, fava beans, and breadcrumbs for NIS 84, or spaghetti with fresh seasonal mussels, white wine, herb butter, celery, and onion for NIS 89.
"We have an incredibly rich selection of wines," adds Shalom. "The menu includes wines from Israel and around the world, and there’s also a wine shop at the entrance for anyone who drank a delicious wine and wants to buy a bottle to take home, from local and small producers who are very important to us, to large wineries from around the world. There’s always been a great atmosphere here, but we wanted the food to receive even more emphasis in honor of the 14th anniversary," he concludes, also inviting guests to the aperitif hours (Sunday-Thursday, 17:00-19:00, with a 20% discount on all food and wine, including good bottles opened by the glass). "It’s not an aperitivo nor a happy hour; we’re still French," he smiles.
Par Derrière, 7 Bat Ami, Noga District, Jaffa, 03-6292111